Hiking to the Magnificent Sacra di San Michele in Piedmont
Sacra di San Michele is an imposing monastery located on top of Mount Pirchiriano, overlooking the Alps and Susa Valley, in Sant’Ambrogio di Torino. It is just a short train ride from Turin.
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A Little History
The Sacra, built between 983 and 987 AD, is part of the Sacred Line of St. Michael, a group of seven ancient monasteries built to honor Saint Michael, the Archangel. The shrines form a straight line stretching from Israel through Greece, Italy, France, England, and ending in Ireland.
It is said that the line perfectly aligns with the sunset on the day of the summer solstice in the northern hemisphere. Legend says the precise line was created by a sword strike by St. Michael when he cast the Devil into Hell.
Adding to the mystique, each monastery was built in a dangerous and/or difficult-to-reach place.
Once you’ve seen the Sacra, you might be inclined to seek out other monasteries in the Sacred Line of St. Michael. You can read about our experience in Ireland, at the southernmost site in the line: An Epic Adventure: Landing on Skellig Michael.
**As an aside, St. Michael’s name is spelled a variety of ways depending on the country and the source. For instance, the Italians generally use Michele, the French use Michel, and the Irish use Michael. So please forgive the inconsistent spelling in this post.
Getting There
If you’re coming from Turin and have several days to choose from, be sure to check the weather report and pick the clearest possible day. The views from the top are outstanding and the fewer clouds the better. Rainy days should be avoided altogether, not just because of the cloudy views, but because the trail gets muddy and very slippery in the rain.
There are regular nonstop trains daily from Turin’s Porta Nuova station to Sant’Ambrogio, (where there is just one train station). It is a pleasant 30-minute ride. From the train station, it is a short walk through town to the beginning of the trail. If your time is flexible, we suggest going as early in the morning as you can, as the Sacra gets a bit crowded later in the day, and it is the type of place where you will want to have a little solitude.
Be sure to wear supportive shoes capable of walking on a rocky, uneven, and often steep trail. Hiking boots and trekking poles would be perfect. I made the mistake of bringing “cute” sneakers rather than supportive ones, and very much regretted it. (Possibly loudly and with a bit of profanity on the hike up.) You’ll want to bring a refillable water bottle for each person in your party, as well as sunscreen and a snack.
If it is possible, hiking is the best way to get the complete experience of Sacra di San Michele. That said, it is a difficult trek and there are many reasons one might not be willing to or able to hike.
In that case, there is a shuttle bus on Sundays from Turin to the parking lot near the top of Mount Pirchiriano. From there, it is a 10-15 minute walk on a paved path to arrive. Also, if you have a car, you can drive to the parking lot.
The Climb
We were on a food tour in Turin the day before our planned hike to the Sacra. Our tour guide raised his eyebrows and asked if we were sure we were ready for such a hike. We chuckled. After all, we hike in Colorado regularly. This will be no big deal.
Turns out, it was a big deal! We were humbled.
From the train station, it is about a 2.5 mile hike, with nearly 2000′ of altitude gain to get to the Sacra.
The trail is steep and much of it is covered in slippery, unstable rocks. The monks apparently wanted people to really earn the privilege of seeing the monastery!
It took us just under two hours to reach the top. (It took a little over an hour to climb down.)
Though challenging, it is a beautiful hike the whole way.
The trail is lined, every so often, with stone crosses, each with a different small artwork in the middle, representing one of the 14 Stations of the Cross. These awe-inspiring crosses are works of art on their own. They have the added benefit of giving hikers an idea of their progress toward the top, which was greatly appreciated.
Along the way, the trail has three fountains with fresh, cold, crisp, delicious water. Such a gift! (And an excuse to take a little break.)
The Sacra, Up Close and Personal
Any struggles of the hike melt away instantly upon reaching the top. The monastery complex is spectacular. Stark but glorious.
Inside, the sanctuary is filled with preserved frescos and art dating back to the early 1500s.
The Sacra has a dizzying array of terraces, each with a view more breathtaking than the last.
One terrace even has helpful maps in two directions, outlining the mountains being viewed in the distance.
The hike back down is a bit quicker. But, honestly, it is not easier. Those pesky stones are just as unstable and slippery on the way down, so caution is warranted.
Conclusion
We started the climb up to the Sacra around 8:30 am and only encountered a handful of other people the whole time. Even on the trek back down, we only saw a smattering of other hikers. It seems the vast majority of people access the Sacra from the parking lot, near the top of the mountain.
If you’re able and you’re seeking a little solitude and one-on-one time with nature and history, the hike is the way to go. The above information suggests that the hike is quite difficult. The fact is, we were just caught unprepared, much to our chagrin. With proper preparation and proper shoes, it is an enjoyable, moderate (or maybe moderate+) hike.
The adventure ends where it began – Sant’Ambrogio di Torino. Surely you’re a bit peckish by now. Consider stopping into Birrificio San Michele (Brewery San Michele in English) for a well-deserved beer or two, made with crystal-clear water from the Alps, and a juicy burger. It is a popular venue for folks coming down from the Sacra, and a great place to connect with like-minded travelers.
Finally, meander back to the train station to catch one of the twice-hourly direct trains back to Turin.
If you’d like to read more about our time in the Piedmont region of Italy, check out: 4 Unforgettable Days in Piedmont.
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