Pagosa Springs: Outdoor Adventure Meets Complete Relaxation
Pagosa Springs, Colorado is a small mountain town with a lot to offer: gorgeous scenery, a rich history, and an outdoor-focused, relaxed vibe. The town’s claim to fame is, without question, the abundance of hot springs. The “Mother Spring” in Pagosa is the deepest known geothermal hot spring in the world, reaching up to 144 degrees at the source! The actual depth isn’t even known. The Guinness Book of World Records tried to measure it in 2011, but despite bringing a 1000-foot plumb line, they didn’t reach the bottom.
The name “Pagosa” comes from a Ute word “Pagosah” meaning healing waters or boiling waters. The hot springs were sacred to Indigenous peoples long before modern settlement.
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Getting There
Tucked away in the beautiful San Juan Mountains, Pagosa Springs requires a bit of planning, time, and effort to reach. But it is worth it!
The nearest airports are Durango (DRO) and Cortez (CEZ) to the west, but both have fairly limited flights and connections. The Albuquerque, New Mexico airport (ABQ) to the south is nearly a 4-hour drive, and the Denver airport (DIA) and Colorado Springs airport (COS) to the east are about 4.5 hours and 5.5 hours, respectively.
From whichever direction you arrive, you’ll be treated to gorgeous scenery, well-maintained winding roads, and, if you’re coming from the east or west, high mountain passes with spectacular overlooks.
Tip: From September through May, all motorists are required to either have an all-wheel or four-wheel drive vehicle, or (for two-wheel drive vehicles) snow tires or all-weather tires with a mud/snow designation.
Total Relaxation: The Springs Resort
We generally provide multiple suggestions for where to stay on your travel adventures. But in Pagosa Springs, there is one clear winner – The Springs Resort. (Sadly, we receive no compensation from the resort. They are just that good!)
Aptly located on Hot Springs Boulevard, this sprawling resort is situated along the lovely San Juan River and is within walking distance of the town center, which is full of restaurants, shops, and outfitters. The rooms & suites are nicely appointed, particularly those in the newer buildings. Dogs are allowed in the older buildings.
But the rooms are beside the point.
The resort boasts an astonishing 52 mineral spring pools distributed throughout immaculate, creatively landscaped grounds. Each pool is unique, with temperatures ranging from the upper 50s to around 112 degrees Fahrenheit (monitored regularly). Some are small, intended for just two or three people; others are much larger, fitting a dozen or more, and everything in between. You can be Goldilocks! Too hot, too cold, too big, too small… until you find the perfect fit for the moment.
The hot springs contain 13 minerals, including potassium, magnesium, zinc, lithium, iron, and manganese, and are said to promote healthy skin, lower blood pressure, strengthen bones and muscles, and increase energy. The resort has partnered with Dr. Marcus Coplin, a naturopathic doctor, to create an enjoyable self-guided “soaking journey” lasting from 1-3 hours with different phases in pools of various temperatures (warm, hot, very hot, cool, or cold), changing pools/river dips every 5 – 20 minutes.
Upon checking in, each guest is given a large pool towel and a fluffy, oversized robe with big pockets. (Bring your own flip-flops.) “Robe culture” prevails here, with almost everyone wandering around the entire resort, even the eateries and bars, in their robes. The hotel offers unlimited robe and towel exchanges, so if your robe gets a wee bit damp, no worries. Just pop into the reception area and they’ll happily provide you with a fresh one immediately. Many people exchange several times per day.
The majority of the pools overlook the San Juan River, and some have bridges, waterfalls, caves, and other features. Each pool has a name. For example, Twilight has wonderful sunrise/sunset views, Contrast Falls is a waterfall that is half 109 degrees, and half a chilly 58 degrees. The Bend, Top O’ The Mornin’, and Cauldron are a few more examples.
Two significant areas of the resort are adults-only. In the rest of the areas, there are occasional children, but, in our experience, they were not remotely disruptive.
Hotel guests have 24-hour access to the pools. Day passes are also sold to non-guests that can be used between 10 am – 6 pm. Though even on popular weekends, the pools don’t feel crowded. Nevertheless, as a hotel guest, it is delightful to visit the pools in the quiet late afternoons, evenings, and mornings, and even better to watch the sunset and sunrise from a pool you likely have completely to yourself.
The Mother Spring, the world’s deepest geothermal hot spring, is located right in the middle of the resort grounds and is open for viewing to the public. Her therapeutic water feeds most of the pools at the resort, as well as other pools in the area.
Swimming in the Mother Spring is not possible, as it reaches temperatures of up to 144 degrees. But worry not, you have 52 other springs from which to pick.
As if the pools alone are not enough to totally relax you, The Springs Resort has a luxurious spa and wellness center. Offerings include a wide variety of massages, facials, aqua treatments, and body treatments. The spa also has two private indoor pools available to guests on the day of their treatment.
More than a dozen different complimentary guided activities are available; guests are given a schedule upon check-in. Some examples include Aqua Yoga, a Warrior Plunge into the San Juan River, Aqua Sound Bathing, a Forest Hike, Aqua Meditation, and a Detoxing Mud Experience.
A variety of tasty food options are scattered throughout the resort. The Wild Finch is an upscale sit-down restaurant, and there are multiple other casual restaurants and bars. In addition, staff wander through the pool areas taking orders, and bringing drinks and light food items to customers poolside. Ample tables, many right on the river, are distributed throughout the grounds.
You could spend several wonderful days here and never leave the resort. But Pagosa Springs has much more to offer!
Outdoor Adventures
There are a plethora of outdoor activities available in Pagosa Springs in every season.
Hiking
Hiking opportunities abound. A great resource is AllTrails, which provides directions to and details about trails just about anywhere you might travel.
Our favorite hikes in the area are Alberta Peak, a moderate hike, and Treasure Falls, a short, fairly easy one. Though many hikes in the area require extensive driving on dirt roads, these two are both served by well-maintained Highway 160.
The Alberta Peak trailhead is at the summit of Wolf Creek Pass, about 25 minutes from Pagosa Springs. It’s a beautiful area to turn off and take some photos, even if you don’t feel like hiking. The trail is part of the 5-state Continental Divide Trail. It passes through the Wolf Creek ski area, and it is fun to see the lifts and signs in the off-season. Most of the hike is above the tree line, so the views are pretty epic the entire time.
Spectacular Treasure Falls is also accessed by Highway 160, about 10 miles northeast of Pagosa Springs. Many people just pull off the highway and view the portion of the falls visible from the parking lot. But it is well worth the slightly steep 10-15 minute walk to a bridge to see the falls up close.
You can also follow the signs to a viewing area at the very top of the falls, but the view from the bridge is better.
These falls are best visited in the morning before 10 am, or on a weekday to avoid crowds.
For a leisurely stroll, the San Juan River Walk can’t be beat. The paved, flat, scenic walk is a highlight of the town. The 2-mile trail starts near the visitors center, and follows the river all the way through town, through 2 parks, past benches and information plaques, next to community gardens, over bridges, and past numerous places to wade in the river. You can access the river walk directly from the Springs Resort if you’re staying there.
Biking
Mountain biking and road biking are both very popular in the area. Due to the ever-changing altitude, e-bikes are a common sight. There are multiple opportunities for equipment rental and small group tours as well.
Many trails start right in town, and range in difficulty from short, easy rides around town to advanced rides in the mountains and even along the continental divide. Pagosa Trails is a great resource for biking information.
Rafting / Paddling / Floating / Fishing on the San Juan River
The San Juan River is a giant playground! Among the many popular activities are white water rafting, stand-up paddle boarding, tubing, kayaking, and more. (Several of the local companies that provide guided tours and/or rentals are linked in the previous sentence. Most of them provide multiple services.)
The river in downtown Pagosa Springs is regularly stocked with trout and offers some of the best fishing in the area. There are more than a dozen other areas to fish, outlined in this brochure. In addition, numerous companies offer fly half-day and full-day guided fly-fishing and ice fishing trips.
Hot Air Ballooning (All-Seasons)
For those seeking an unusual and exciting adventure, a hot air balloon ride might be just the thing! Rides last 30-45 minutes, and are generally scheduled early in the morning, to take advantage of the calm wind conditions.
Photo credit to Rocky Mountain Balloon Adventures.
Downhill Skiing
Family-owned and operated Wolf Creek Ski Resort often gets the most snow in the state, boasting an average of 430″ per year. (By comparison, Steamboat Springs receives an average of about 350″ per year, Aspen & Breckenridge average about 300″, and Vail about 260″ per year.) Wolf Creek maintains 11 lifts serving 133 trails ranging from beginner to expert, as well as hike-to-ski terrain.
Resort services include ski and board rentals, lessons, multiple dining options, and two sport/souvenir shops. There is no on-mountain lodging.
Wolf Creek is about a 25-minute drive from Pagosa Springs, and multiple parking lots are available. As an alternative to driving, a winter shuttle from town to the resort is offered.
Cross Country Skiing and Snowshoeing
The volunteer group Pagosa Nordic Club maintains more than 31 miles of groomed and ungroomed cross-country ski trails, along with tracks for snowshoers. The trails are free to use.
Numerous shops in downtown Pagosa Springs rent skis and snowshoes. It is a wonderful, quiet, and inexpensive way to explore the area.
Dog Sledding / Snowmobiling
If you’re seeking an exhilarating winter activity other than skiing, dog sledding and/or snowmobiling may be the answer!
San Juan Sled Dogs offers a 2-hour “Mushing 101” experience two times daily, and includes transportation from Pagosa Springs. After mushing, visitors are invited to play with the pups. Mountain Paws offers a 2.5-hour “Drive Your Own Team” tour, allowing each of up to 4 people an opportunity to drive the sled for a few miles. They also feature an extended opportunity for one person to drive for about 22 miles. Both companies offer hot beverages and snacks after the adventure.
Snow Country Snowmobiles and Wolf Creek Snowmobiles offer 2-3 hour scenic tours, with no prior snowmobile experience needed. Both provide an opportunity for free time in a large open area, giving the chance for riders to go as fast as they wish! Snow Country also features advanced backcountry lessons.
When to Visit
There is no bad time to visit Pagosa Springs!
Fall is a wonderful time, with fewer crowds and the gorgeous fall foliage. Due to its 7000’+ altitude, cool weather starts moving in in early September, and the hot, soothing mineral springs provide a perfect ending to an activity-filled day.
Winter is perhaps the most scenic time to visit. The period of time between Thanksgiving and ML King Day is particularly popular. Sitting in a steaming hot spring while the snow falls is a magical scene. However, winter can be a challenging time to get to Pagosa Springs due to the curvy roads and mountain passes.
Spring is a quieter time, and an excellent opportunity to see waterfalls at their fullest. Nearby Treasure Falls, for instance, will be spectacular. There is still a chill in the air, making the springs a perfect place to warm up any time of day.
Summer is a very popular season, with abundant outdoor opportunities. Wildflowers peak in June and July. Pagosa Springs does not get as hot as the Denver area, and the healing pools are always a treat, particularly the evenings, which tend to cool down nicely. If you get too hot, just take the “warrior plunge” in the cold San Juan River!
Are you continuing your Colorado adventures? Consider visiting fabulous Breckenridge/Summit County in any season! Check out our stories: Breckenridge Overview, Summer in Summit County, Winter’s Wonder in Breck/Summit County.
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Another great discovery. Thank you. This is a place I knew nothing about. You make everywhere you go seem fun.
Thank you, Bill! I hope you get the chance to go sometime. We love discovering new places!
Sounds fantastic!
Thank you for your comment. Yes, it really was wonderful!