Paris on Repeat: 14 Amazing Things to Do on a 2nd or 3rd Visit
If you’re lucky, you’ll go to Paris once in your life. If you’re truly blessed, you’ll experience the joy of returning.
First-time visitors, as it should be, visit the most famous sites: the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, Arc de Triomphe, Musée de l’Orangerie, Champs-Élysées, Musée d’Orsay, Notre-Dame, and Versailles, for instance. First visits are often a frantic rush to see as much as possible. Each of the above sites is truly a “can’t-miss” and worthy of its fame.
But a second or third (or more!) visit can be more relaxed, less crowded, and equally extraordinary. In fact, you might fall in love with Paris a little bit more.
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Table of Contents
Left Bank
(listed in order of arrondissement)
Cluny Museum (5th arrondissement) The Cluny Museum boasts one of the largest collections of medieval art in the world. Part of the museum is built atop 1st or 2nd-century Roman baths that were in operation for around 200 years. The lower level reveals the cavernous, partially restored frigidarium (cold water bath or pool), with 45-foot vaulted ceilings. (Room 1)
Moving upward, you’ll find the 21 stone heads from statues of the biblical kings of Judah that once perched over the front of Paris’ Notre Dame. (Room 5) During the French Revolution, revolutionaries decapitated the statues, and the heads disappeared for two centuries, until they were accidentally discovered in 1977, having been, amazingly, buried in the yard of a private townhome in Paris!
Continuing upward, view beautiful stained glass exhibits (Room 8), the 15th-century Gothic chapel of L’Hôtel de Cluny, upon which another part of the museum is built (Room 16), along with countless other artifacts.
The unequivocal pièce de résistance of this museum, though, is the Lady and the Unicorn Tapestries, in room 20. Considered to be some of the greatest masterpieces of medieval European art, the six gigantic tapestries surround you in the room. Five are dedicated to the senses: (from left) touch, taste, hearing, smell, and sight. The sixth, and largest, is titled (in English translation) “To My Only Desire”. Art historians speculate it could be referring to love, to religion, or to free will, but no one knows.
The room takes your breath away.
For a quick breakfast before the Cluny, or a snack after, consider popping into La Maison d’Isabelle, just a 5-minute walk away. It has award-winning, exquisite croissants in a city full of fabulous croissants. They’re just that good. It offers many other delicious pastries as well.
The Cluny is also about a 10-minute walk (in the other direction from the boulangerie) from Luxembourg Garden, a wonderful place to take a break, or even to spend an afternoon.
Luxembourg Garden (6th arrondissement) These tranquil, elegant 55 acres of manicured gardens were commissioned by Queen Marie de Medici, (widow of King Henry IX, mother of King Louis XIII), to surround the Luxembourg Palace, her royal residence. The Palace is now the seat of the French Senate, which manages the grounds.
Highlights include a large pond where children can float model sailboats, tree-lined promenades, abundant flower gardens, an orchard, a marionette theater, and the spectacular Medici Fountain, dating back to 1630. There are thousands of now-iconic green chairs that can be moved about the park, allowing visitors to relax wherever they choose. (Some of them are shown in the third photo, below.)
La Grande Épicerie de Paris (Food Hall – 7th arrondissement) Le Bon Marche, founded in 1838, is one of the world’s first ever department stores. The beautiful six-story building has a fabulous array of anything a person could want from luxury designer goods to more affordable items, all displayed with French flair.
Adjacent to the department store, and connected by a glass skywalk, is another splendid experience. La Grande Épicerie de Paris is a 30,000 square foot gourmet food emporium. There are a myriad of choices, including a cheesemonger, a butcher, a fishmonger, a boulangerie, a pâtisserie, shelves and shelves of chocolates, a rotisserie and charcuterie section, a “luxe” counter with delicacies, an expansive wine and spirits cellar, and a gastronomy counter with dozens of fresh, seasonal prepared foods. La Grande Épicerie de Paris also houses 8 restaurants, ranging from fine dining to counter service.
It’s a great place to grab a picnic lunch to take to enjoy in one of Paris’ many beautiful parks, or pick up some take-out food and a bottle of wine for an easy dinner at your hotel or rental after a long day of exploring. On one visit, nearly all of the souvenirs we took back for friends and family were from here.
Paris Liberation Museum (14th arrondissement) This free museum houses an abundance of stories, artifacts, interviews, and videos, centered around the extraordinary stories of Jean Moulin and General Philippe Leclerc, two pivotal figures in the French Resistance who were instrumental in turning the tide in WWII. Interestingly, though their stories intertwined, they never met.
If you have read about the French Resistance, the names Moulin and Leclerc will be quite familiar. However, anyone with any interest at all in WWII history would find this museum worthwhile and meaningful.
The museum is a quiet, thought-provoking, somber place, and it didn’t feel appropriate to take photos. Thus, we have only the exterior photo, above.
The Paris Liberation Museum is just across the street from the Paris Catacombs (see below), making it convenient to visit both in one day.
To catch your breath between the two sites, or to enjoy a lovely lunch, consider visiting the bustling market street of Rue Daguerre, just a block away. It is 4+ blocks of meat, seafood, cheese, pastries, bread, and produce stands, street performers, crafts, dozens of cute little independent shops, and a diverse assortment of restaurants and cafés. If convenient, visit on a Sunday, when the whole area is traffic-free.
Paris Catacombs (14th arrondissement) In the late eighteenth century, public health issues related to overcrowding and sanitation in the city’s cemeteries led to a decision to transfer the bodies to an underground site. The remains of more than 6 million people are held there today. Beginning in 1809, the catacombs opened to the public and have remained a fascination for Parisians and tourists ever since.
The catacombs are dark, damp, and creepy. One would not want to get lost down there. Though self-guided audio tours are available, taking a small group guided tour, such as this one, may be the best way to experience this attraction.
Unexpectedly, especially if you’re not typically interested in this type of attraction, the catacombs are genuinely intriguing. The tunnels have markers showing when they were made, what streets they are under, and highlighting designs made by the skulls. Guides explain how the bones got there, and even postulate as to whose bones are there… maybe even those of kings and queens! Perhaps a bit macabre, but interesting nonetheless.
There are no spaces to sit or take a break, so bring your walking shoes and be prepared for stairs both up and down.
If you find yourself with extra time, just a few minutes walk from the Catacombs is the Montparnasse Cemetery
Right Bank
(listed in order of arrondissement)
Musée Carnavalet (3rd arrondissement) – This medium-sized free museum in the Marais neighborhood is dedicated to the history of Paris, dating back to ancient times. It is a delightful love letter to Paris. The main level is perhaps the most heartfelt, filled with historic storefronts and signage, giving one the feeling of walking along Parisian streets of the past.
The lower level is dedicated to Paris’ ancient history, dating back to 9000 BC, and continuing through the Middle Ages. The upper levels cover the 1500s through the French Revolution, Napoleon’s rule, and the present day.
Opéra Garnier (9th arrondissement) For inexplicable reasons, it took us until our 4th visit to Paris to see Opéra Garnier. Don’t make our mistake! Commissioned by Napoleon III and designed by architect Charles Garnier, it is a feast for the eyes at every turn. Highlights include the dazzling white marble Grand Staircase with its dramatic chandeliers, the intimate Salon du Soleil with a gold and black sunray ceiling and mirrored walls, the astonishing Grand Foyer with its mosaic-covered ceiling, modeled after the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles, and the sumptuous auditorium with its 200′ high ceiling, most recently featuring art by Marc Chagall. It is impossible to overstate the opulence of this opera house.
Opéra Garnier offers guided tours as well as a self-guided audio tour during opening hours. However, our recommendation is to reserve a spot in the guided Mysteries of the Palais Garnier tour, starting an hour after closing.
Small groups (divided by language) are led by an entertaining guide explaining the history and architecture of the building, but also sharing fascinating stories about political scandals, tragic deaths, and, of course, the deep connection to the (mostly) fictional Phantom of the Opera. Guests are treated to seeing, and even sitting in, the Phantom’s box seats, an experience not available during the daytime tours.
Musée Marmottan Monet (16th arrondissement) For lovers of Impressionist art, Marmottan mustn’t be missed. For everyone else, well, you still won’t want to miss it! This small museum is as impressive as major tourist draws such as Musée d’Orsay and Musée de l’Orangerie, but surprisingly has a fraction of the crowds.
Tucked inside an old mansion in western Paris, Marmotton has the world’s largest collection of Monet’s works, thanks to a bequest from his son, Michael, which included Monet’s art and his house in Giverny, where he lived and painted for more than 40 years.
The collection includes Impression, Sunrise (bottom photo, below), which inspired the Impressionism movement, and more than a dozen huge canvases of his waterlilies and Japanese bridge paintings from his time in Giverny.
Marmottan is not limited to Monet. It boasts the world’s leading collection of the outstanding work by the first female Impressionist artist, Berthe Morisot. (One of her acclaimed paintings, The Cradle, left.)
In addition, the museum houses a superb collection of works by Degas, Renoir, Rodin, Delacroix, Chagall, and many more.
Marmottan also features sculptures, bronzes, and Empire-style furniture, including a bed that once belonged to Napoleon.
The museum is truly extraordinary. Hopefully, it will remain slightly under the radar so it can continue to be enjoyed in relative peace.
After visiting Musée Marmottan, consider arranging a visit to the gorgeous Giverny, the source of Monet’s inspiration, about an hour from Paris. A visit is best done by train or with a small group tour. And if you have not already visited on an earlier trip, the Musée L’Orangerie (1st arrondissement) is also a magnificent Monet museum that can’t be missed.
Place du Trocadéro (16th arrondissement) This 2.5-acre park in the middle of Paris provides arguably the best unobstructed view of the Eiffel Tower in the city. It features sculptures, gardens, and the spectacular Warsaw Fountain with its 20 water cannons. It is a delightful place to relax and spend some time, or better yet, to have an evening picnic and watch the tower lights twinkle across the Seine!
Dali Paris (18th arrondissement) This compact, but wonderful museum in Montmartre houses over 300 original works by Salvador Dali from a private collection. The extraordinary, bizarre, and sometimes obsessive sculptures, paintings, etchings, and furniture are a joy to explore. Our only regret is that there was no gift shop (other than the opportunity to purchase pieces of his art for tens of thousands of dollars). We would have loved to take home a little memory of this special place.
While in Montmartre, there is much more to see. Top of the list, if you have not seen it on a previous trip, is the spectacular Sacré Cœur, at the summit of the hill, visible throughout Paris. Sitting on the front steps provides some of the best views in Paris (though also some of the biggest crowds, particularly on summer weekends). Also not to be missed is Place du Tertre, lined with friendly local artists working and selling their paintings. While strolling the charming streets, walk by the famous Moulin Rouge and snap photos of the iconic windmill. (If you want to stick around for the renowned show, reservations far in advance are necessary.)
Père Lachaise Cemetery (20th arrondissement) The largest and most well-known cemetery in Paris covers 100 acres, and is the resting place for nearly a million souls. Some of the more famous people buried here are Edith Piaf, Jim Morrison (still with a constant supply of fresh flowers on his grave), Gertrude Stein, Oscar Wilde, Molière, Frédéric Chopin, and Baron Haussmann.
It is a beautiful, quiet, contemplative place to stroll for an hour or more.
Île de la Cité
Deportation Memorial This tiny but moving memorial to the French victims of the WWII Nazi concentration camps is located at the far southeast corner of Île de la Cité, behind Notre Dame. It is easy to miss, as much of it is underground, but it is worth making an effort to find.
Descending a staircase, visitors enter a hallway lined with 200,000 rods of glass, one for each French person who was deported to a Nazi camp. At the far end is an eternal flame of hope. Additional rooms house an exhibit on the horrors of life in the camps, with the names of the camps etched in stone.
For an in-depth tour of the history of Jewish people in Paris, including the Deportation Memorial, consider this well-rated small-group tour.
Sainte-Chapelle. This exquisite Gothic cathedral features soaring stained glass windows – a jaw-dropping kind of beauty. Built in the 13th century for King Louis IX (future Saint Louis), the cathedral was completed with astonishing speed – just over 6 years. (Notre Dame, for instance, took 200+ years.)
The 6500 square feet of stained glass depict over 1000 biblical scenes, from Genesis to the end of the world. However, no biblical knowledge is needed to appreciate this awe-inspiring place.
For a special experience after visiting hours at Sainte-Chapelle, book a classical music concert in the evening. Small ensembles perform Vivaldi, Bach, and more in the intimate setting. The atmosphere is relaxed and the acoustics are amazing. And you are treated to seeing the chapel without the crowds.
To see multiple sites on the Île de la Cité, this highly-rated small group tour combines Sainte-Chappelle with the newly reopened Notre Dame Cathedral and the creepy but compelling medieval palace-turned-prison, Conciergerie, all within a couple of minutes walk from each other.
Take a Food Tour
A food tour is about so much more than food. It is connecting with a local person and learning the history, the personality, and the hidden gems of the area. Food is absolutely part of the culture of any place. We love to take a tour early in any big city trip to acquaint ourselves with our neighborhood, or another area of the city with which we’re unfamiliar. In Paris, Saint Germain, Le Marais, and Montmartre are the most popular areas for food tours. We have taken tours in all three areas and couldn’t possibly pick a favorite.
Both Paris by Mouth and Secret Food Tours offer authentic experiences, with generous portions of food and, if desired, wine.
Are you continuing your adventures in France? Perhaps our posts A Taste of Provence or 3 Days in Bordeaux will provide some inspiration!
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Thank you, Lisa! This will be my second trip to Paris and I hope to see many of the places you have suggested!
Wonderful! Enjoy your time in glorious Paris – we’d love to hear back about your trip upon your return!